8-12-2005: Replaced derailer and back rim thanks to a generous donation from Desert Rat.  It just needed adjustment and now I realize the value of that clear plastic ring by the spokes.  Installed megaphone with robot voice changer, some el wire rings, replaced some bolts and tightened all around.  She's good to go and a joy to ride!  When the el wire flashes on and off you hear a "blip blip" coming through the speaker like a sonar ping.  A happy accident.  Made a tape loop of ice cream truck music and it really makes it funny.  I can see kids running, waving dimes at their doom.

 

8-8-2005: Fully operational- once around the block at least.  The idea of the pegs at the back wheel forced removal of the stabilizer bolt, which in turn allowed the derailer to be twisted through the broken spokes.  Oh well, it really looks nice now: More paint and camo, trigger moved to right of handlebars (now padded), night vision spotlights.  Four new knobs gifted from Mr. Fixit (thanks again, my friend!) in case we continue to break them.  Secret message on muzzle cover: to be revealed on playa.

8-3-2005: Fine tuned the through of the bellows to halt 1/3 of length from the muzzle and replaced high tension bungee with two lower tension that have longer span.  Much better results.  Click here to see the mini-movie of a shot at old glory thirteen feet from the muzzle.  The new muzzle cover pops off with the pull of a spring and will likely have some nasty words on front and back.  Click here to see the mini-movie of the muzzle cover in action.

7-30-2005: Trigger mechanism now functional. Replaced the door latch with a beefy one from a locksmith who looked at me funny. Simplified the spring supplement with a compression type around the exposed cable. Cocks and works great but keeps knocking the pull knob off. It's a gear shift lever. Maybe I need one that looks like a skull.

Stripped out one of the aluminum trunions- expected that. Using more bungees to counterweight the front and experimenting with other bungees for the bellows tension to get a longer throw to it.

7-24-2005: Mr. Fixit has again astounded us with his vision, skill, and ability to teach whilst conceptualizing.  He has designed in a sliding platform the the zooka can be removed and replaced with a seats, block ice, whatever is needed.  His foot brake design and implementation was elegant and very effective.  I mounted the gear shift levers under the seat, and it rides a lot better with a stable load that is low to the ground.  Took some kids on the trike around the block a couple of times, that was fun. 

As for the zooka, The gear shift handle came unglued as it is not designed for the pull.  Replaced with vice grips for now.  The tension against the door latch is too great for it to release.  My neighbor discovered he could get it to release if he turned the knob and a lot.  That gave me an idea:  What if we grind off one side of the washer that's welded on?  Then just turn the know after it is locked and cocked and when it comes to the flat spot you have ignition.

 

I replaced the bellows with some light weight tarp from a BBQ cover and the results are pretty poor.  We may have to consider emulating the toy I have and make a "piston" plate that can move through a sealed chamber.  We really need to play with this a lot to get some results out of it.

Here's a picture of an idea to at a shade sail to the top.  More sail than shade if we get a good playa wind... better opt for a quick disconnect.

What you may be over-looking is that the cable needs to slide inside the cable housing.  If you use two six-foot lengths, you'll need to provide stops for the housing at all four locations.  [beginning and end of two six-foot cables] For example, you might weld a small nut -big enough for the cable to pass thru, too small for the housing - where the housing of the first six foot length ends, and again for the start of the second length.  The cable itself can be joined in any number of ways, as long as the joining doesn't impede the movement.  You might weld the cable ends together, or use a simple nut & bolt.  The most important part is the cable housing stops...without them the cable won't work.

  To the best of my knowledge, a 12' cable would be a special order -and expensive, if even possible - otherwise I doubt they are available anywhere.

  Personally, if I were attempting to build a 12' cable, I would crimp the ends of the cable to a 22. ga electrical connector [the kind with a hole in the middle for a bolt], bend the cable end back to meet itself then weld it.  I would then bolt the two together.  I would use washers large enough to encompass the crimped & welded connector and then tighten the nut as much as possible.  If there's no room for such large washers, forget them...they probably wouldn't be needed anyway.

  An alternative might be to get a small diameter copper tube, barely large enough for the cable to pass thru each way,[the two cable ends, one from each direction] and weld and flatten the tube in a vise.  Remember to provide for the cable housing stops before welding anything... 

  I've never welded bike cable, but since it's usually steel it shouldn't be a major problem.

  Regardless of how it's done, the only important things are the housing stops and free movement of the cable. And of course the strength of the union.

 

Rat